Problems with 2002 Toyota Camry WHEELS

Whiles driving east on i-20 the tread on my rear passenger side tire came off almost causing me to crash. i was traveling around 65 mph & almost lost control of the car. after pulling off, i found damage to the wheel-well. i also think something in the exhaust system may have been damaged because the car sounds different.

I was on a ramp to i-520 at a speed between 45-50 miles.hr and the ramp is straight. suddenly the car lost control and spinning - finally, i noticed the front passenger side tire is flat. the problem is the airbags were not deployed though the front (both left and right) hit the concrete wall badly and damaged badly. also the abs was not engaged. *tr

Replacement of wheel bearing and brakes required for 2002 toyota camry, 64k miles, no record of accidents. no accident occurred, but one will before long when wheel bearing and/or brakes fail. *tr

Dt*: the contact stated while parked, air was noticed leaking from a rear tire. the vehicle had no warning lights for tire pressure. the leak was continuous and no problem was detected in the tire itself. the vehicle was taken to the dealership, who determined the leak was coming through the cast alloy rim. the manufacturer was contacted who took the case and promised to call back the next business day which never happened. the contact expressed concern because the other three wheels could be defective as well.

I have a 2002 camry se v6 that has a persistent noise when the brakes are applied. i had the car's brakes repaired at jack sherman toyota in binghamton ny because all rotors were warped at approximately 20,000 miles. i have since noticed a clang or clank when the brakes are applied or the steering wheel is turned or occasionally going over bumps. i took the car back to jack sherman toyota and made them aware of the noise but was told nothing could be done to correct this problem. i have since pulled the front right wheel and noticed the wheel studs are too short! this problem is actually present on all wheels. the taper at the base of the stud does not protrude through the hub flange to center the rotor properly and this allows the rotor to slap against the stud threads when the brakes are applied. this may eventually cause them to shear off. i have pictures available upon request. i believe longer studs are required because when i removed one of them from the flange and inserted it through one of the bolt holes in the rear of the rotor it fit properly. *ak

Cracked and broken lug nuts- dealer found one and i just found another. i haven't taken it in to the dealer yet. *jb