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Problems with 2012 Nissan Sentra ENGINE

On average, the 2012 Nissan Sentra starts to “feel” problems with the ENGINE and its various aspects after 70 295 miles.

Recently reported ENGINE problems on 2012 Nissan Sentra

2012 nissan sentra was bought 3 weeks prior with no problems. while traveling 60 - 70 mph on a highway the car suddenly stop running and the power steering went out and the vehicle was unable to steer out of the troubled area on the highway. the vehicle broke down in the middle of a highway. after research it seem to be the same actions that has happened to thousands of other nissan sentras. the defected cvt transmission causes this to happen. luckily my son was not killed during a accident that was caused after he was rear ended and the vehicle was totaled.

Number 3 cylinder low compression with only 83k miles on the vehicle. rough engine driving and check engine light on. codes p0300 and p0303 displayed. this kind of engine failure shouldn't happen with such low mileage

When driving on the highway in my 2012 nissan sentra it sometimes deaccelerates gradually to the point where you can't go past 60 mph and when trying to accelerate it is sluggish

The car turns off when stopped like at a red light or stop sign. battery was replaced by the dealership a week ago. alternator was checked and is good. i have to turn the key to the off position and start it again.

I am having issues with the transmission. it appears that the engine is not changing gears automatically. or it could be a problem with the fuel injection of the vehicle. also there is a problem with the airbags deployment system.

Tl* the contact owns a 2012 nissan sentra. while driving various speeds, the vehicle jerked and stalled. additionally, there was an abnormal whistling noise emerging from the vehicle. there were no warning indicators illuminated. the vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who stated that the transmission needed to be replaced. the vehicle was taken to nissan of norwich (691 w thames st, norwich, ct 06360, (860) 892-6000) where it was diagnosed that the belt needed to be replaced and there was metal in the transmission, which needed to be repaired. the vehicle was not repaired. the manufacturer was contacted and provided case number: 35185453. the manufacturer stated that they would assist with sixty percent of the repair costs. the failure mileage was 57,000.

Car stalls for no reason when stop at light or stop sign

I have a 2012 sentra that i bought in 2014. i started to experience random loss of power on highway, and rpm would up at random times, like it was stuck in gear. last yr i discovered that my cvt transmission was going bad and already had to replace the transmission (bought used). less than a yeat later, im starting to experience the same problem. nissan needs to extend the warranty thru the 2012 mdels, on any cvt transmission to 10 yrs. very aggrivating considering i'm still making payments! i would never recommend this vehicle to anyone.

My nissan sentra has 85,000 miles on it and my transmission is completely broken. the cvt transmission they put in my car has an extended warranty in it for known problems with it. i was driving with my two small children on a very busy highway when it stopped moving and i had to pull over and restart it. when i restarted the vehicle t again would not move. i finally got it to move to where i got to a mechanic and they told me my transmission was completely broken. i took it to nissan and they are not going to help my fix it 100% fully knowing that the cvt transmission they put in the car has problems. i spoke with nissan customer affairs and they told me that because my car is out of their warranty there is nothing they can do to help me when this is not my fault. they keep producing cars that have this transmission in it and keep having to replace it except for my car. i have two small children that i need a car for. i have a loan out for the car that now i have to pay for that does not work! i can not afford to fix the transmission that nissan put in that is known to fault out!

While driving on the highway to go to work, the transmission went out. when i tried to accelerate, the car would rev but wouldn't go faster. luckily, i was able to slow down enough, put on my hazards and stop without being hit by oncoming traffic. had a cop not been nearby when it happened, i could have been. i had to wait in the middle of the highway for an emergency assistance response man to come and push my car to the side of the highway. then, to add insult to injury, i had to wait 5 and a half hours for a tow truck to come and take my car to a shop.

After a 1.5-2 hour drive on the highway, my car would not accelerate beyond 60 mph. it drove fine after getting home and getting some rest. no lights came on this first. similar event happened a couple weeks later - much shorter drive approx. 20 minutes, slower speeds, but main inclines. all lights (check engine, oil, emergency brake, battery) came on and the car would no accelerate at all. i pulled over and turned the car off then back on again and it was completely fine.

Ses light threw code 0420 indicating that both o2 sensors need replacing. i bought the parts and took to a shop to replace. shop had trouble reaching the upstream sensor and was worried it might be threaded and suggested i take to the dealer to replace. the dealer said the port was indeed threaded upon removal of sensor, and the only fix was to replace the exhaust manifold. seems like quite a design flaw that replacing a $70 sensor causes the need for a $1000 manifold. manifold isn't broken, only the o2 sensor port is threaded so therefore a new sensor can't be put in, necessitating the entire replacement of the manifold.

Engine stopped working with no warning while at a stop light on a city street, restarted after 5-10 minutes going back & forth through the gears back to drive. temperature 115 on this day in las vegas , nevada

I have owned this car for 2 years. every year, as it starts to warm up in the spring, the same problem recurs. i have had it to several repair shops, only to be told that it cannot be fixed. as i am driving on the freeway, it will suddenly start to decelerate, and i must pull off the road and let the car sit, turned off, for 20-40 minutes. last week, the check engine light came on, and when i took it back to the dealer, they want $3000 to fix the car. this has been a problem since the first summer after i bought it.

The issue first started last summer. i had a car full of 4 teenagers and we were heading out of town and the engine began a loud whistle sounds and then the gas pedal quit working - we limped off the highway after almost getting hit and got a tow truck and rental car. the mechanic had us pay for a whole new motor. we thought the issue was fixed. then a couple months later i again had 4 teenagers in my car heading out of town and the whistle noise started about an hour into the trip. then it got louder. then the car would decelerate going uphill. then, as we got to the next exit, the gas pedal stopped working completely. we again almost died, barely made it to the gas station and realized there was an auto zone next door. so we went and had the codes read as the check engine light had just popped on...when i turned the car back on, everything worked fine but it had sat for 30 minutes. research led us to the cvt issues with an extended warranty that had passed. we tried a transmission cooling device and did not drive the car over an hour. but this past week i tried again with 2 teenagers in my car...one hour in to a trip, it happened again. this is not ok for a car transmission to decelerate and put my children and my life at risk.

While driving, a piece fell out of the bottom of the car, after which the engine began to smoke and the car began to lose power. i pulled off the road and turned off the car, at which point the engine became engulfed in flames. the car has had no problems to date, and the check engine light has never come on.

About half-way through a highway road trip from dallas to houston, my vehicle began automatically decelerating from 85mph to 70mph although my foot pressed hard on the accelerator. i activated cruise control at 70mph, but the vehicle continued to decelerate although cruise control was activated and displayed beneath the speedometer. when the car's speed dropped from 70mph to 60mph on the highway, i took the nearest exit in centerville, texas and stopped at the gas station to turn my car off then on again. the car continued to decelerate, reaching only 45mph as i entered the busy highway yet again. after 15 minutes, the car began accelerating to 60mph. after struggling with the car's speed for about 30 minutes, everything returned to normal and the car began accelerating to 85mph once again.

I have had my car for just over 2 years. i bought it used for business trips mostly. i drove it for the first time on a long distance business trip and 3 hours into trip it stopped accelerating over 70 miles an hour. this continueed the entire way to my final destination. no lights came on, no sounds or smells either. once i was in town driving on normal roads it was fine again. then i drove it back home, same thing happened but more extreme. i took it to the nissan dealership in boulder colorado. in doing so i found out that all nissans had a warrenty recall to put in a cvt cooler part. a feature that all nissans need to insure the possibilty of long distance travel without the transmission over heating and not accelerating properly. the dealership then informed me that it would have been covered if i had brought it in before it was over 60,000 miles. now that it is howevr, it is my responsibility to pay over $800 for a part my car should have come with. i called nissan noth america to find resalution, they closed the case and will not help me. i find this extremely unexceptable and dangerous. as a single 31 yr old woman, i could have been stranded in corn fields in the middle of kansas in the dark had my transmission failed unexpectedly. i purchased this car at 40,000 miles two yrs ago, it should have had that part put in before it left the lot. i will not accept this and am hoping to find some support in getting nissan to cover parts and labor for this issue. please let me know your thoughts and how i should proceed from here. thank you.

I purchase used car from 2012 i never expect to have any car problem for at least 4 yrs, but that was not my case in 5 month of having the car it started to give me problems. the fist problem is that i had a leaking that was coming from the sun roof and the top light. i was told that the way is made it had to drain tube and they get clog. i was also told not to park my car under tree. uh that's is kind of hard there's a lot trees in the country. i had to change the battery in about 3 months. the car when i turn it off the motor was still running. few day after the my car would not start not even manually. i told that the ignition was not working and the anti theft system lock therefore i was not able to turn the car on. i also saw that the metal that is under the steering wheel was rusty from the leak. i research the recalls, but was not able to find any on this year. however i found the previous year had a recall and was the same issues i'm having. *tr

Vehicle was purchased used and the battery died after 3mos and 3000 miles, dealer refused to replace. purchase price for new battery is $145.00 i find this charge ridiculous. this vehicle is used maybe every other day since we have 2 cars. the dealer said the car still has 60,000 miles warranty. on a certified pre owned vehicle i do not except having to put a new battery in the car. i must ask what kind of inspection do you guys do, and should i expect more things to go wrong with this car. *tr

Upon accelerating the car makes a awful clunking noise that is not only heard but felt on the floor under your feet this happens often. the dealer stated this was normal. i pressed the gas pedal while switching lanes and the engine revved up, but the car did not move. it took the transmission several seconds to catch up to the engine. *tr

2012 nissan sentra. consumer writes in regards to inadequate cabin heat in winter. *smd the consumer stated he noticed this past winter, the vehicle did not heat up to normal operating temperatures on a timely basis when the outside temperature was roughly 15 degrees or colder. instead, the coolant temperature gauge moved about 1/3 of the way and just stayed there for an extended period of 20 minutes or more. as a result, the heater put out only minimally warm air. eventually, the vehicle fully warmed up and the heat output was normal. the dealer was aware there was a problem, but was unable to correct it, and they had not received any technical advice or assistance from nissan. *jb nissan informed the consumer, the condition was identified in other sentra's, but that was how the engine was designed, and it would not be changed. updated 09/10/14

Summer 2013 ,while driving on the freeway at 60 mph, some tire debris off an 18 wheeler truck tire was on my lane,, to avoid hitting it and or the vehicles next to me i looked into my rear view mirror to check for cars behind me and made a sudden slow down, but not a complete stop,,i pressed the gas pedal to go around the debris and the engine revved up, but the car did not move. it took the cvt transmission several seconds to catch up to the engine, before the car started to move again..i told a service manager at ipoc nissan dealer in san antonio about this and he seemed to brush it aside, stating those things happens with cvt's. what the dealer did find was an engine oil leak between the transmission and engine, you can't really see the oil leak, but the fact that dust collects around it indicated and the rest of the underside is cleaner. the dealer had to remove the transmission, parts connected to it,,front axle etc..the flywheel to replace a defective rear engine main oil seal. this was at about 7000 miles into this new nissan sentra. also i have made countless complaints to nissan and it's dealer of the horrible knocking from the engine (2.0) on start ups. and somewhat gets quieter after warm-up, but is still present at about 2000 rpm and up.. nissan has time after time refuses to accept that they have a mechanical product defect, instead they claim the knocking is coming from their fuel injectors, to the abs brakes systems,,to the trunk lid..these are the excuses they have told me. i would not like to pass on these problems to some other person if i get rid of this new car,,what i would like nissan to do is make good on their product, their advertising on tv, radio, and other media is deceiving and nissan is trying to avoid having to fix their problems. the problem with the stop and go on the cvt happened again and i reported it to the dealer . *jb

At about 1130 pm on my way home from work, approaching a intersection, i depressed the brake pedal and car seemed to increase speed and went through intersection through lawn and striking another car, total lose of control, no brakes, a real scary feeling. *tr

Vehicle was pulling out of a driveway at night, just beginning to accelerate, and struck a trailer that was not clearly noticeable (did not have clear reflectors). at 5 mph, the hood was crunched like an accordion, the airbags deployed, and the car is considered totaled. what would the consequences have been if striking something at 30, 40, or 50 mph? *tr

I have the same complaints as the following: date complaint filed: 09/05/2012 component(s): power train , structure date of incident: 08/09/2012 nhtsa id number: 10473871 date complaint filed: 01/18/2012 component(s): power train , service brakes, hydraulic , suspension date of incident: 01/12/2012 nhtsa id number: 10444380. *tr

The temperature reading goes up to 3/4

The oil pressure sensor gasket faulty on the 2012 models, have had it repaired 3 times, leaks oil on top of engine, the last time lost almost all of oil. it is also something that when it first happens is not necessarily noticed by the consumer until an oil change, but the problem so far has occurred 3x and each time has gotten worse. *tr

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