We have classified the 15 complaints from 2007 Honda Fit about POWER TRAIN into the following categories.
Oem cv axles have deteriorated and broken while in motion on a busy city street! causing the car to lose all (forward & reverse) driving capabilities, which in turn created a dangerous situation for all parties on the road. a broken cv axle also adds an increased risk for transmission damage.
Right half shaft failed due to salty winter road water entering the area between the shaft damper and the shaft, gradually corroding the shaft until there was no longer enough sound metal left to transmit torque to the wheel. the shaft failed while leaving a stoplight; if it had failed at highway speed, it likely would have been disastrous. from what i can find on a honda fit forum, this seems to be a fairly frequent failure mode for both fits and civics. i have three other photos of the failed half shaft, but they are a bit too large to upload. i also retained the failed part.
Vehicle in motion on street. left front axle broke. lost power, clunking noise. required tow and replacement of axle.
I was pulling out of a parking lot onto a major intersection, and the right drive shaft of my 2007 honda fit broke. i was accelerating at a low speed to pull out into the intersection. i had to have my car towed off to a repair shop, which was closed for the day since it was after 5pm when this happened. this was a major inconvenience, and thankfully i could get a ride home and a rental the next day. the other drive shaft was just as bad, and the total repair cost was around $600.
Vehicle in motion on street. right front axle broke. lost power, clunking noise. required tow and replacement of axle.
1. on 8/18/2016, the left front axle metal snapped in two (not at the joint) while i was driving on route 8 in bellevue ky. the mechanic said this was a manufacturing defect. 2. on 6/1/2017, the right front axle snapped in two (not at the joint) while i was driving on the expressway in the middle lane at >55 miles per hour in heavy traffic. the mechanic said this was a similar manufacturing defect and that i'm lucky to be alive! i have receipts from both repairs and a picture of the axle from the first failure, attached to this complaint.
Had to have the passenger side axle replaced. i was having the oil change and it was pointed out to me the axle under the vibration damper was severely rusted. rust was so bad as to have caused the vibration damper to split in several places. you could "dig" a screw driver into the rust. person recommended having the axle replaced as soon as possible. brought the car to a repair shop and mechanic confirmed axle was severely rusted. car has 154000 miles on odometer. *tr
Right drive axle shaft broke, rusted through inside vibration damper, left drive axle near failure; right front abs sensor damaged. had pulled over to curb in gear, break occurred when starting to pull out, was stuck in active traffic. luckilly this failure did not occure when traveling at road speeds.
Pulling out of a business's driveway onto a highway, half way across the highway the car starts to loose forward motion and engine rev's increases dramatically. step on gas and car will not accelerate. check to see the car is in drive. roll across the highway and coast into a parking lot. look under car and see front axle on drivers side has snapped. it snapped at the point where the axle meets the damper. took car to dealer and he confirmed front driver side axle is broken. this happened when there was no traffic on the highway. serious accident could have occurred if highway was busy as car was in the lane i was crossing over of two lane highway when axle broken and was only going about 5-10mph at that point. had the highway not been on a hill or had i been trying to go in the uphill direction would not have had enough speed to avoid oncoming traffic.
My check engine light came on this sunday morning when i driving over 60 mph with a/c and radio on my car jerks, i have already had a major transmission repair that cost over $500 and the car continues to misfire i was told the car was fine by the dealer rusty wallis. i have a service history book of everytime i have ever had any type of service my car has ever had since i purchased it. i do everything that the dealer tells me i'm informed i m supposed to do for the care of my car. i get my book stamped with the seal from rusty wallis every time i get service, even just an oil change. my high beams turn on whenever i use the signal lights. i just replaced my battery and now my a/c will not work. i'm taking my car into rusty to have the latest recall the airbags fixed this saturday. i have spent thousands of dollars on my car and all work on my car has been at the place i bought it rusty wallis. they have always been good with me, but i really think something is wrong with the engines and fuel/ electrical systems in the fits 2007. i just don't want to keep spending money on a problem that will never be fixed. i'm afraid that my car is going to stop while i'm on the freeway for an issue i have already paid to have fixed. i have had major tune ups, brakes, transmission and gaskets engine stuff done every time i was informed my car needed it, but the issue is not resolved. i would prefer an impartial entity review the situation and give me the findings, because i feel like i'm spending money and the issues still persist. i have paid for most things on my credit card for a track record of the years. my car is only 9 yrs old. rusty wallis has been good with me, i think the defects are factory made from honda. i would like to know is this stuff just happening my car or are others having these issues too.
Power steering failed as leaving work. starting car has been a recent issue since the starter is having problems but the power steering failing the only solution has to been to restart the car. in this case not possible since i could not get the car to restart. *tr
Car slipped out of gear while traveling at approximately 45 mph on an entrance ramp to a major highway. this could have been dangerous in some circumstances. clutch failed requiring complete replacement. *tr
While accelerating in light traffic on a 2-lane road, clutch failed and i could not engage gears to drive. had towed to mechanic, who researched the internet and learned this is not an uncommon failure in honda fits. the tabs or teeth on the pressure plate of the clutch were warped or bent causing it not to engage. mechanic stated that this was caused by poor engineering design. under different traffic conditions, this loss of control of the vehicle's acceleration could have resulted in serious consequences to me and others. because my mechanic's research showed that this type of clutch failure occurs too often for such newer cars, i believe your agency should require honda to - at the very least- warn others who have purchased fits with standard transmissions and re-design the part to avoid its failure. ideally, they should be required to replace the poorly designed part at their expense. *tr
I am the owner of model year 2007 honda fit. this year, when the car reached around 76,000 miles the clutch began to fail to fully disengage with the pedal fully depressed. eventually the problem was isolated to the mechanical clutch assembly (as opposed to the hydraulic system). after disassembly it was discovered that all of the ?diaphragm springs? on the clutch pressure plate were bent, some more severely than others. my technician noted that he had never seen this sort of thing happen before. in order for the pressure plate diaphragm springs to have bent, one of two things must have occurred: 1. the diaphragm springs were damaged during assembly. if this is the case, then the damage would have been apparent when the car was new, not some 76,000 miles later. identification numbers on the clutch (m41l 11 23/50) should prove that this clutch was the original and had not been replaced. 2. the diaphragm springs of the clutch lost their spring tension. this to me seems to be the only plausible explanation. this could be due to defects in the steel itself or improper heat-treating. i believe that a series of brinell hardness tests at various depths would prove that the clutch diaphragm springs are too soft and that this condition that ultimately caused the clutch to fail. *tr
Knowledge of failure of right axle lift bearing on 1 2007 honda fit speed, and 2008 honda fit speed (2). dealer unwilling to rectify problem. the 07 has 44,000 miles, 08s have 33000 and 35000 respectively. *tr
My husband was backing up our honda fit in the driveway. he put the car in reverse and while he was backing up it made a terrible grinding sound. he put his foot on the brake and then put the car into drive. before he even moved his foot over to the accelerator pedal, the car accelerated so fast that it left skid marks on the driveway. he put his foot back on the brake and the car didn't stop. he put the emergency brake on and the car didn't stop. the car crashed through our fence at which point he put the car into park and it came to a screeching halt. *tr
After a right turn, i attempted to return up to speed by depressing the accelerator pedal and the power train/ transmission failed to engage, i.e, the engine raced and the car coasted forward with speed declining. the transmission/power train resumed normal function after approx.5 to 6 seconds. vehicle behind me heeded my warning blinkers and a collision was avoided due to his/her alertness. *tr
Tl*the contact owns a 2007 honda fit. the contact stated that the gears were not shifting properly. the failure occurred intermittently. when the vehicle is started, one of the air bag icons illuminate and remains lit for approximately ten minutes. the front and rear bumper paint is chipping and the passenger side front bumper is detached from the vehicle. the dealer has been notified. the current mileage was 21,300 and failure mileage was 18,000.
Continuing problem with 2007 honda fit automatic transmission hesitation to down shift at 2-5 mph, such as rolling stops at yield signs. when you step down on accelerator transmission seems to get confused and does not allow acceleration at all for 2-3 seconds. it is okay if completely stopped, but not from a rolling stop. this is very dangerous, and has almost caused an accident several times. the honda dealer acknowledged that this was a defect, but honda technical support said the fit models all do it, and there was nothing that could be done about it. *ak