Problems with 2013 Ford Focus ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

I purchase a 2013 ford focus july of 2013. about 3 months after i purchased the car, it started to jerk as i would press the gas to accelerate the auto. i've taken it into the dealership about 6 times since. they've reset the system and about a month later, the card would jerk again. this past summer, in a parking lot of a shopping center my car wouldn't turn on. i had to call a towing company and take it into the dealership again to have checked out. they said it was due to the clutch, it needed to be replaced. it was replaced and the jerking continued to the point i was so used to it, i forgot about it. a few nights ago i had the most terrifying situations while driving. as i was driving, i'd press the brake to stop at the red light and the car kept wanting to accelerate, making the system go crazy and the car dieing. i was able to turn the car back on but it died again. the dealership now says its the clutch and something on the transmission that needs to be replaced. now, i get a call saying they cannot replace the clutch until i replace the release baring, which i have to pay out of pocket. my life was in danger and i could have easily crashed into another car. i am so furious with ford and will never purchase another car from them. i don't understand how i have to pay out of pocket for a part that is on recall to be replaced. very upset!

Right now, ford is rebuilding the hybrid transition for my 2013 ford focus for at least the 4th or 5th time. there have been so many problems with this model, so many complete shut downs (sometimes as i am getting on the highway) and so many service appointments that it's astonishing there are no official recalls on the books. i would absolutely never consider buying another ford until they make this situation right.

The car is stalling when accelerating which seems to be a common complaint from this year focus owners. i took the vehicle to a transmission shop but they too were unable to diagnose. some of the reading is showing there is an electrical connection issue which is causing this.

We had he check engine light come. a check of the code showed a fuel delivery system problem. we also noticed that when trying to fuel the vehicle when placing the fuel nozzle into the fuel fill a rush of air would escape. after fueling the car would not start. once we get the car started it would run rough for several miles. also, the fuel gauge was wrong. the fuel gauge would show 1/2 tank but we ran out of gas. the mechanic had to replace the fuel tank, our mechanic had to replace the fuel tank, purge valve and associated hoses, fuel pump. also, another problem arose with the instrument cluster. all of the gauges including the radio went blank and would not function. the mechanic had to disconnect the battery and reset the computer for the instruments and radio to begin working again.

Loud crackling/popping/static sound comes from radio at random intervals, radio then stops producing sound, have to turn the car off, open & shut door, then turn car back on then radio starts working again. safety concern is the loudness of the sound coming at random times is startling and can cause an involuntary jerk/jump. numerous people have had the same issue- one example is this forum: http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/car-audio-sync-myford-touch-electronics/358625-crackling-radio-problem-my-2012-sel-38.html. i have video of the issue, which i cannot upload, but type ford radio issue into youtube and you'll find lots of examples.

Radio makes loud popping noises and loud static discharge sounds. noise comes from nowhere and continues even if the car is shut off or with the car running. can't adjust volume on radio to lower sound. sound like a gun being shot near your ear. very annoying especially when in traffic.

2013 ford focus audio system does not function properly. cracks and pop at extreme volumes even when system volume is fully turned down and/or off. issue occurs even prior to vehicle being started, doesn't matter if car is running, driving, at a stop, in park, etc. happens all the time. extremely dangerous situation for driver as the sound is a similar volume to someone setting off fireworks in the car. this will cause accidents for drivers if it is not corrected. ford claims this is not a widespread issue but a simple google search of "ford focus audio issues" brings up many results proving otherwise. needs to be a recall. happens every time i drive the car, began about 3 months ago and has only continued to get worse and happen more often. audio system is not old enough to where i should be required to replace. under normal circumstances an audio system should last as long as the life of the car, not four years. ridiculous and dangerous, please correct.

Tl* the contact owns a 2013 ford focus. while driving, an abnormal popping noise was coming from the radio. in addition, the radio failed to operate and then operated independently. after attempting to the lock the doors while inside the vehicle, the doors failed to lock while driving. the vehicle was taken to blue springs ford (3200 nw south outer rd, blue springs, mo 64015), but was not diagnosed due to the cost. the vehicle was not repaired. the manufacturer was not notified of the failure. the approximate failure mileage was 86,000.

I have read many recalls on the wiring issue of the 2013 ford focus st model with it stalling out due to faulty wiring. my 2013 ford focus se is doing the exact same thing putting my daughter's life at risk every time she gets in it as well as my own and wray ford in shreveport la says sorry cant help you...it's not on the recall since its not an st and you will have to pay for the repairs. this is garbage ford is not standing behind their product and i am the little guy. this is the second recall for this issue and the se is not being taken care of with the identical issue. runs fine when driving, but when at a light or stop sign, it shakes, gauges go crazy and then shuts off. i just bought this car and of course when i got it home that's when the issues started. purchased as is no warranty and of course was not told of the issues but only that i should call to see if there are any recalls. help! funny thing is that it stalled on me at the red light turning into wray ford in shreveport.

Ford focus 2013 se - while driving (in motion), driver's side door unlatched and swung open, and would not close, horn stopped working, interior displays and lights flickered, when pulled over, car would not start. if we were on a highway it would have been tremendously dangerous. later car did start, but door would not latch, radio was reset, hazards would turn on and off at random. door latch and horn would not work after this event. shortly prior to this issue, horn started working at random, wipers would not turn off. when inspected, advised battery was bad and had corroded negative wire to battery. one week after replaced, this event occurred. clutch in vehicle also jitters when increasing speed from full stop, allegedly corrected at ford dealership after recall (2 years ago). per research this issue is being caused by a faulty clutch interfering with electrical system.

Car won't start after refueling.... takes several attempts to crank before barely firing up, random rough idle and rpms will drop and the car will stall for no reason. all problems with idle will come and go, it will run fine for a bit, then the idle problem will come back. the problem cranking the ca rafter putting gas in is every time i get gas.

The body control module failed. after only 4 years and 53k miles on the road the bcm simply stopped working. the car was not showing any of the signs of a failing bcm (electrical glitches, engine issues, etc.). as far as i knew, until the component failed the car was in perfect condition. the car was parked outside my office when the part failed. when i made my 20 minute commute to work around 7:30am it operated fine. when i returned to the vehicle around 5pm the key fob would not work, the instrumentation panel would not light up and the engine would not turn over. i tried jumping the battery multiple times with no improvement. the car was completely dead. we had to manually override the brakes just to get the car loaded onto a tow truck. mechanics spent more than 4 hours looking over the vehicle to determine the source of the issue. after multiple tests they determined that the tcm was working fine (ford issued a csp for tcms on this build) and that the bcm failed. they told me that typically a bcm will fail if there is an accident, water damage or a short, but they also confirmed that this vehicle showed no signs the failure was caused by these problems. they also told me that the part can fail with age, however, this is a newer model year with relatively low mileage. while i was fortunate that my car failed when the car was parked, i worry that other drivers may not be so lucky. it sounds like this part could fail while the vehicle is in motion, and if it does, can cause engine problems and result in sudden dangerous driving conditions. this is even more concerning knowing that there are other vehicles out there with this version of bcm and that they can fail prematurely too.

Horn began intermittently failing, when double locking the car the horn chirp would either not sound or would sound but quietly as if it was dying. the same thing occurred when trying to engage the horn by depressing the center of the steering wheel. sometimes it worked others it didn't and sometimes it sounded faint and cut off early. after about a month the horn stopped working entirely. when trying to engage the horn from the steering wheel i hear a click like a micro switch engaging but no sound. my horn will not sound whether i am parked and stationary or while driving on the freeway or city streets, all i hear it the sound of a micro switch click. i am currently at the ford dealership and the little metal connectors for the horn are corroded and after cleaning them off the horn works fine again. due to the location of the horn i have to pay quite a bit for this and discovered it is a known and common problem.

Tl* the contact owns a 2013 ford focus. while driving at unknown speeds, the vehicle stalled without warning and was unable to restart. the vehicle was towed to edd rogers valley ford (located at 111 auto ln, sparga, tn 38583, (931) 738-2311) where it was diagnosed with a faulty transmission control module that needed replacement. the contact stated that the module was replaced at no cost to her. the manufacturer was notified of the failure and referred the contact to nhtsa. the failure mileage was unknown.

After purchasing the vehicle brand new in june 2013, the car would stall/jerk/grind when trying to take off after being stopped at a red light or stop sign, or just accelerating to increase speed. had to take it in to the dealer to have the clutch repaired and even after this was performed, it still jerks, especially when the air conditioner is on. in january 2016, had to take it to the dealer to reprogram the pcm/tcm and perform clutch which was the 15b22 software update issued by ford motor company. after 36,000 miles the horn stopped working. after 65,000 miles the check engine light turned on and after taking it to the dealer, was told it had a code p0456 which is a small evap leak present. since it's not under warranty, i have to pay $119 just to diagnose the problem. now i have a safety recall notice 16s30 which states it may be possible that my side door latch may break, which may make the door difficult to latch. all this on a vehicle that is under 100,000 miles and almost 4 years old.

This car experiences sudden loss of power leading to the inability to accelerate or even move the vehicle for varying lengths of time. this is left me stranded in dangerous situations three times. twice i was in traffic (coming off the i-95 north and needing to merge my exit, then when stopped at a red light in a left turn lane) . most recently the vehicle would not start up after being in a parked. in the latter episode jump-starts did not help. while the dash lights eventually came on, and the windshield wipers were able to move one to two times and then died, the engine simply would not turn over. initial evaluations by the dealer for an engine light gave an "overspeed code" which was not relevant to driving conditions.

As i was waiting for light to turn green at a busy intersection my car stalls. it was acting as if i had put my car in park and accelerate the gas. on my dash board i notice the symbol as if my traction was on. i turned my car off and tries to restart it. it will not turn over. not even making a sound. mind you i am at a very busy intersection. this is so dangerous especially if this would have happened on the freeway.

Tl* the contact owns a 2013 ford focus. while driving various speeds, the vehicle hesitated to accelerate and shuttered. on several occasions, the vehicle failed to start. the cause of the failure was not diagnosed. the vehicle was not repaired. the manufacturer was not notified. the contact indicated that the vehicle was previously repaired for the same failure. the vin was unknown. the failure mileage was 72,000.

There is a group of electrical cables in the trunk of the vehicle on the passenger side that controls all the lights that are attached to the trunk lid. this includes the brake lights. when opening and closing the trunk, this group of cables rubs up against a metal bar. eventually this can cause the electrical cables to lose their protective tape and possibly cut the cables, leading to a complete loss of brake lights, reverse lights, and turn signal lights. additional details can be found at the following link. http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/mk3-focus/312776-sedan-owners-watch-potential-wire-failure-trunk.html i have contacted my local ford dealer, but they did not seem to care. they have made obtaining appointments to fix other recalls extremely difficult and it almost seems like they wish to ignore nhtsa recalls instead of making vehicles safe.

Wires in the rear right luggage compartment have become exposed and/or broken from regular opening and closing of the luggage compartment lid. the wires are restricted in motion such that they bend with every opening and closing of the luggage compartment. this lead to a breaking of wires which caused the trunk light and opening mechanism to fail. exposed wires can lead to many more problems like shorting the battery or an electrical fire.

While driving on a main thoroughfare at 50mph my 2013 ford focus engine shutdown. i coasted to the side of the road. luckily this did not cause an accident because no other vehicles were on the road. when i took the vehicle to the car shop i was notified the electrical wires had frayed, killing the engine, and was a known issue. there is a bulletin on 2013 ford focus documenting this problem (tsb 15-0036). service representative repaired the harness at throttle body.

I've researched and have discovered that the radio head is bad. while driving, there is a ridiculously loud static noise that pulses at any given time. even when i turn the ignition off, it still statics loudly - you can hear it while walking away and the windows are up

Takata recall: about one month ago the horn started working intermittently before ceasing to work at all. it will not work where the car is parked or in drive. i bought the car less than a year ago. in general it has had other issues with the electronics in the car, anything having to do with the media system (auxiliary, usb, sync audio, etc have all stopped working) since i bought it in june 2016. i cannot obviously honk the horn while driving and communicate effectively with other drivers on the road. the car has ~53000 miles.

Tl* the contact owns a 2013 ford focus. while driving low speeds, the steering wheel seized and the brake system warning indicator illuminated. the vehicle was able to be restarted and operated correctly. the failure occurred several times. the vehicle was taken to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the electric steering motor burned out and needed replacement. the vehicle was repaired. the manufacturer was not notified of the failure. the failure mileage was 92,300. *cn

About 1 am this morning i left work and started down the highway with the gas gauge reading 44 miles to empty. since it was rather late i decided to go home and just get gas in the morning but about halfway home it it dropped all the way from 44 down to 17 and then about a mile later ran out of gas. this was an issue but not the one i'm overly concerned about right now. i placed on my hazards and tried to flag down some help to get to the gas station i had to leave the car parked in a curve and though i was off the road it wasn't by much so i left the hazards on. when i came back roughly an hour and a half later the battery was completely dead. i got gas into the car and got the battery jumped and then started the vehicle with one major issue the instrument panel had gone completely dark so there was no way of telling how fast i was going nor could i see how much fuel was in the tank or engine temperature. the other issue was the turn signals also stopped working. today i checked all the fuses and when i pulled out the one for the instrument panel it was absolutely fine but when i put it back in everything came back to life like there wasn't a problem about an hour and a half later in heavy traffic it all went dark again so i was unable to use my turn signal or tell how fast i was going. once again i just pulled out the same fuse and push it back in and everything was fine. this just seems like it could be a real dangerous issue and as i read online this car seems to have a plethora of them also the issue with not getting an accurate reading of how much gas is in your tank is also a problem. the gentleman from the store who helped me put gas in the car and jump it said he has the exact same model for his wife and that he was told when she ran out of gas it was because the plastic tank melted and change shapes allowing inaccurate reading of the amount of fuel left

Tl* the contact owns a 2013 ford focus. while driving various speeds, the vehicle stalled without warning. the contact was unable to restart the vehicle for approximately twenty minutes. the dealer was unable to duplicate the failure. the vehicle was not repaired. the contact stated that the failure was intermittent. the manufacturer was not notified of the failure. the approximate failure mileage was 60,000.

Radio short -- the radio has stopped working and makes a very loud popping sound. it began as one loud pop. if you restarted the car the radio would work. now, even with the radio off, the speakers will make an extremely loud popping sound. it happens randomly, and can happen out of the blue. when it happens it is very sudden, and very loud, loud enough to cause you to slam on the brakes, or immediately jerk the wheel due to fright. the radio makes static without the radio turned on, and even when you are not in the car. there is an active thread online http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/car-audio-sync-myford-touch-electronics/358625-crackling-radio-problem-my-2012-sel.html that gave me the information i needed to help diagnose and remove the fuse. the loudness of the issue, the randomness, inability to maintain focus on the road is a serious issue. in removing the fuse i now have lost the lock/unlock function of the doors and the ability to use my flashers. i will be going to ford to have the radio head unit removed until i can resolve this with ford. it is a serious safety issue. *tr

While driving i came to a stop sign and as i started to let out the clutch and moving roughly 10 mph my car engine completely shut off and power steering was lost. interior lights were still functional but when i went to start up the car again it would not turn over. this is a manual transmission but nothing was working to get it started again. this to me is unacceptable flaw in the system that put me at risk of causing an accident. being stuck in the middle of an intersection and without power to the engine. i am fortunate enough that i was on side streets and not on a highway as this issue could have caused a serious accident. i took it to a garage to get it fixed and they told me that my model was not under recall. doing some research found fords recall 14s17-s1 for the ford focus st same year (2013) as mine with the exact problem my car had. the garage that i am receiving the repairs at told me they found 5 wires that were severed and was part of the problem. i have yet to get the full diagnostics from the garage but will be adding the document to the report once this has been resolved and all issues are made aware. *tr

At approximately 2:30 am this morning 12/31/16, our ford focus burst into flames while stationary in a parking lot. thank god we and our 11 month old were not in the car at the time. we have had this car into the shop at least twice for transmission problems then our entire multi information screen including radio quit working, they refused to fix because we were out of warranty. we have barely had this car for one year and have had nothing but problems. now we have no car because it is totaled from the fire. the police based on initial investigation said it was an electrical fire. i have seen another 2013 ford focus catch fire in australia and other places. i would like this to be investigated so this does not happen to other people.

Car has stalled while driving now 5 times in 9 days. the first time driving from denver to casper, i wasn't too far from home the steering assist service needed warning came on, and about 5 miles later i received a transmission service required warning, immediately followed by an engine service now warning and i completely lost power. in trying to restart the vehicle, i had all my lights and everything (including warnings), but no crank. when a nice person asked to push me to the shoulder at least out of the turn lane while waiting for a tow truck. the car started right up. towed the car still to a ford dealership, where i was told nothing was found and they couldn't replicate the problem. 7 days later. and about 250 miles from home on the interstate. the same thing happened. the car started about an hour later after the tow truck driver arrived to help. was able to drive the car home, and again the following day the fold dealership told me just communication codes on the computer and unsure what the issue is. today, the car did the same thing 3 more times in the span of 2 hours. once i was stopping in the right through lane at a stop light with my daughter in the car when it stalled out. noticed this time even though i had the car in park the dash read it was in drive. had the ecm on the transmission replaced already in september. right now it is back a the dealership as i do not trust this car with me in it, let alone my 2 little girls. *tr

Tl* the contact owns a 2013 ford focus. while driving and attempted to use the horn, the horn failed to function. the vehicle was taken to the dealer, but was not diagnosed or repaired. the manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. the failure mileage was unknown.

The fuse that controls the instrument panel in front of the steering wheel will not stay in. it does not "blow" and when this happens you have no speedometer,heat or gas gauge,turn signals, ect. i believe this to be a valid safety issue. when this fuse does not allow the current to get to the instrument cluster then the mpg readout returns to 30.7 in lieu of what was being shown at the time of the failure. anytime your signal lights will not work that is a recallable situation. i believ fomoco knows about this. also the sticker on the door jamb in regards to tire pressure reads 30 psi. right now i have 30 psi in my tires and the "low tire" light is constantly on.when i contacted my dealer he said to put 35 psi in each tire to eliminate the problem. if the tire manufacturers wanted more than 30psi in their tires then why does the door sticker not say so and also the tire booklet.

Vehicle does not start with warning parking aid fault. after several attempts, it starts but then stops. vehicle shudders from start, gears make noises and down shifts unexpectedly.

I have had my pre-owned vehicle for 1 1/2 years and have had continuous issues with my trunk popping open randomly. it opens anywhere and at random times. i've had it open while driving down the interstate, which is a huge safety hazard, potentially having things from trunk fly out and hit another motorist. it has been looked at twice by baxter ford in omaha, ne. they can never seem to find the issue or have it "duplicate" on their time. this definitely sounds like a manufacturer defect. *tr

Tl* the contact owns a 2013 ford focus. while driving 35 mph, the vehicle stalled without warning. the contact was unable to restart the vehicle. the vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic. the contact was informed that there was misfire coming from the coil pack. the vehicle was repaired; however, the failure recurred. on several occasions while accelerating, there was an abnormal vibration coming from the engine. the vehicle was taken to the dealer to be diagnosed. the contact was informed that the vehicle was operating as intended. the vin was not included in nhtsa campaign number: 15v813000 (electrical system). the vehicle was not repaired. the manufacturer was not notified of the issue. the approximate failure mileage was 36,000.

Many problems with this ford focus.1st problem i had was a year after i bought the vehicle the fuel pump was leaking.i notice because my car was parked and it smelled like gasoline inside the vehicle.2nd incident happened a year later. i was driving home from work when car just shut off on the road. i was so scared.i was in notion barely move to the side of the road on rt 50.that was so scary i could have died.i had to tow the car to get serviced at sheehy ford. they gave me the car back again and it happened again on the road on my way to work. at that time i towed it again but to koons falls church.looked at the vehicle and didn't find anything either until i got upset and they told me to go for a test drive with the mechanic and it happened while on the test drive. the mechanic stated to keep the car running so he can plug in the machine that reads the problems on the vehicle. he also stated that once you turn of the car and you turn it back on that it would reset it self and that's why they didn't know that tcm or tmc control needed to be replaced. this was very scary for me.now for the passed 3 weeks i have been dealing with a static /popping noise /sound that comes from the vehicle when i'm driving & when the vehicle is parked, the key is out the ignition.i took it to sheehy since that's where i bought the vehicle. they provide the worst service on the vehicle. bcuz they had my car for 4 days and didn't provide me with a loaner and had the audacity to tell me that the master tech was on vacation and i would have to wait still with no loaner vehicle.the radio is completely off and they want me to pay out of pocket to fix it.it has just given me problem after problem is manufactured problems.i had so many safety issues that scared me.car shutting off on the road and now making loud popping/ static noise where i thought i might be electrocuted.

Tcm updated 3 times die to cel. 4th car wouldn't start or even engine turn over. towed to dealer, after 9 days new tcm placed in car. back at dealer for another 7 days. car driving sluggish and only getting 20mpg. ford dealer claims nothing wrong. car feels like a pickup truck.

Tl* the contact owns a 2013 ford focus. while driving 45 mph, the vehicle stalled without warning. the vehicle was towed to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the vehicle needed a new battery cable. the vehicle was repaired. the manufacturer was made aware of the issue. the failure mileage was 35,000.

I shut the drivers side door and took off driving on a city street when the door ajar came on and the drivers side door flew open , i caught the door , but it will no longer latch shut .

Tl* the contact owns a 2013 ford focus. the contact stated that after vehicle was repaired for nhtsa campaign number: 15v813000 (electrical system) and while driving at 35 mph, the accelerator pedal was depressed but the vehicle hesitated before moving forward. in addition, the check engine warning light illuminated. the vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. the manufacturer was notified of the failure. the failure mileage was 50,000.

Vehicle was parked. i went to turn on the car, and the steering wheel was locked and would not turn at all. had the car towed to the dealership. the service manager says the electric steering rack and pinion has failed and has to be replaced at a cost of 1,497.00. in addition, the car has also had numerous repairs to the transmission system. the car has had problems with the transmission since the very first day of purchase. the car will vigorously shudder at random times. the shuddering occurs every time i drive the car and it causes the car to violently jerk forward. we have taken the car in for all of the service updates/recalls, and the transmission problems still persist. the computer screen also will turn off randomly while driving. one time while driving on a highway, the car died. it was very dangerous. i should not have purchased this car.

Takata recall purchased car took to dealer a week after because the gear shift was making loud noise upon reverse in driveway two weeks later i head a loud pop and it broke according to the dealership they did not fix it now my lights won't turn off it says my trunk is open while it's closed and my driver door will not lock or stay closed and the car makes noises as if the key is in the ignition and it's not my door will not lock and my trunk will not open with the key.

Tl* the contact owns a 2013 ford focus. on several occasions, the vehicle failed to start. the vehicle was taken to the dealer to be diagnosed. the contact was informed that the battery needed to be replaced. the battery was replaced, but the failure recurred on nine separate occasions. the vehicle was not included in nhtsa campaign number: 15v813000 (electrical system). the manufacturer was notified of the failure. the failure mileage was not available. updated 07/29/16*lj

New dealer maintained 2013 focus titanium focus 6 months old about 18000 miles had bad wheel bearing on the drivers side, at 46000 transmission was overhauled due to poor shifting,at120000 catalytic converter failed,at136000 car died due to bad wiring harness and fried several sensors, at 143000 transmission control module failed, at 144000 the transmission module failed again on a 3 year old car.

70 amp fuse blows while driving, seemingly at random times. this fuse feeds power to a fuse panel located in trunk. when this fuse blows the radio, power windows, power locks, power seats and heated seat function, parking aid system, and smart key system do not function. due to the smart key not working it makes the car extremely difficult to restart if it had been shut off. if the issue happens while driving the car will continue to run normally other than the noted systems. i had the car at the dealer twice for a total of two weeks, they were unable to duplicate the issue after replacing the fuse and driving the car around town. i got the car home today after it's second trip to the dealer and took apart a panel in the trunk that covers the suspect fuse panel and wiring. i found that the wire bundle for this fuse box runs through a plastic guard until about a foot away from the fuse box, when the wires exit this guard they run tight around the edge of the trunk and come into contact with a sharp metal edge, this edge had cut through the insulation of the main power feed and shorted out. i have attached pictures of what i found. while the circuit was protected by a 70 amp fuse, it still must have created a good amount of heat during the time it was shorted, and there is a felt panel not a few inches away.

I have a 2013 focus and on 3/14/16 on my way home on the freeway, my oil & battery light started flickering on and off at the same time and as it did the car was stalling out. i put my 4-way flashers on, slowed down and moved to the right lane as a safety measure. after another few miles both lights came on and stayed on and the car shut down. i pulled over to the berm, waited a few minutes, tried starting, it started and drove home with no issues. i drove to work the next day with no issues. on the way home things started happening again, the car shut down, but this time after waiting a few minutes the car never started. i had it towed to the dealer and they found that a wiring harness was up against the throttle body and wore through the protective insulating tape, then the wires causing the problem. also, in speaking to the mechanic he said that the bracket the harness was using to keep in place was causing it to be up against the throttle body so he unclipped the bracket. i'm going to call the ford customer service center to discuss. another issue was that the "book" said it would take 3 hours, but only took 2. and yes they tried to charge me for the 3. interesting at $125/ hour, that would be $250/ hour they're making while the mechanic starts on the next car! unbelievable.

While on a highway (august 2015), vehicle transmission began to slip followed by the car shutting off while driving at freeway speeds, vehicle would not turn back on and left me stranded in the middle of the highway. november 2015, while driving along freeway, car transmission began to slip, causing the car to again shut off completely while driving at 65mph. december 2015, driving on a city street, once agin transmission started slipping and vehicle shut off in mid motion while going 30 mph. in february 2016, vehicle started normally, once we pulled out onto a road, car began violently bucking transmission seemed to engage then disengage placing the vehicle in danger of being hit by cars from behind, and jostling passengers substantially. in march 2016, vehicle was driving 70 mph down freeway when transmission slipped, the transmission then seemed to engage normally again, but as vehicle exited freeway on feeder road, transmission disengaged, bucking car, driver had gas pedal floored and the vehicle would only move a few feet. after transmission re engaged, the car lurched forward without drivers foot on gas, putting vehicle at risk for hitting car in front of it. each time vehicle has had an incident, we have taken it to a local ford dealership, transmission computer module was replaced, clutches replaced, transmission re programmed 3 time, pcm replaced. each time vehicle has been given back within a month their is an issue. ford has told us that they really do to have a fix for the problems, and each time we are given an unsafe vehicle back that has imposed danger on our lives and others on multiple occasions. ford even returned vehicle after it had stalled on them, because they could not find anything else wrong. we have been very lucky that each incident has not resulted in a crash.

I went to start my 2013 ford fusion and all of the electrical controls in front of the steering wheel did not work,gauges,readout screen,tach,speedometer,turn signal indicator lights. as i have pancreatic cancer(stage 4) it is virtually impossible for me tocrawl around under the glove compartment to check the fuses. one of my brothers-in-law came over and found the fuse box and looked at several fuses but none were blown. he pulled several fuses and noticed they were corrode on the male ends, as was the female end of the fuse box. i had noticed for several days the computer screen in front of the steering wheel was slow to come on. my car was parked in my driveway in a stationary condition. this seems to be to be a very dangerous condition, especially if it happened while driving, you have no speedometer no tach,no turn signals,ect. anything that is controlled by that fuse. i have had cars since 1963 and never encountered that problem(cored fuse ends). nor have i ever had a car with an auto transmission that "shuddered" when going from a standing stop. you cannot check the fluid, there is no dipstick. i guess they are all in dearborn,mich at the ford headquarters(just a little humor). if the truth was known ford knew about the corroding fuse box, same as the torque converters and transaxles in the ford 2000 - 2006 taurus', yes i have had my bout with them also.

Engine will stop running intermittently while driving on city streets or while turning off of a highway. also, occasionally will die at a stop light. vehicle has a rough and erratic idle while stopped at a traffic light. sometimes idling so low as to almost die. other times idling at 1400 or 1500 rpms

Ford focus purchased in 2013. transmission in for repairs total of five times. two of those five times, vehicle had to be towed back to dealer. first tow: vehicle started shuddering violently while going 70 mph on expressway," transmission fault" light came on, (two children in the car under the age of 9 as well), turned hazards on and coasted off onto a nearby exit and waited for tow truck. second tow: vehicle stopped, shuddered while exiting expressway, warning system came on "transmission fault: service now". both times vehicle lost power, could not engage into gear. high traffic area on expressways, luckily was not injured. non-tow repairs: transmission shudders violently, has difficulty switching out of first or second gears, able to drive vehicle to shop, where it is serviced, but begins to have issues within several months of repairs each times, repeat of the same issues. this is an extremely unreliable and dangerous vehicle that loses power and has issues with the transmission locking up/failing at any given moment, despite multiple repairs and clutch replacements by a certified ford dealer. this vehicle needs to be seriously reevaluated for safety.