The throttle light came on and now my car is wont pick up speed only 10mph and its puttering and jerking. so i replaced the throttle body unit and did a relearn on the car and its still acting funky. i saw its a recall on the 2007 dodge cablier other ppl are complaining about this same problem .. its very unsafe to drive a car like this with my family
I washed my car for the first time and that is when i noticed my cars frame is rusted out. there is a big hole in the middle of my frame that is near the motor. i have to drive it and it sounds like it's going to break in half. it is worst when i hit a bump in the road, like speed bumps. my car has 106k miles the body has little to no rust. i've owned it only a few months.
My 2007 dodge caliber's subframe is severely rusted and there's less then 80,000 miles on the car. a car that new should not rust so bad in such a short amount of time. the warranty on the car should be a recall because the subframe is so rusted that it's dangerous and too unsafe to drive anywhere. in addition to the car being a safety hazard, the subframe is very expensive to fix thanks to the amount of time it takes to remove the subframe. with the subframe gone bad, the rusted out subframe also damages attached parts of the car. the struts in the rear and front have gone bad due to the subframe's erosion.
While driving at normal speed limits 35-45 vehicle seems to be off balance as if it is going to fishtail or i will lose control of the vehicle. i'm not sure of what this issue is but, i have seen previous recalls with this issue and i want to have this issue fixed if possible.
Failed state inspection do to rusted front and rear sub frame with perforation .vehicle has 138 321 miles. reference chrysler action # 23-012-14. recall/extended warranty
The entire subframe is rusted through and is starting to crack, as seen in the photos, while the rest of the car is in good condition. when i turn left, the left side of the car makes a "crunching" sound due to the rust accumulated on the subframe. the rust that has accumulated has made this car unsafe to drive, as it is starting to crack and could crack completely through when i am driving. other dodge caliber 2007 subframes have been recalled due to this issue, and this vin should definitely be added to that recall.
According to my mechsnic ,the sway bar has rotted off and this has been a problem for this model due to where the air conditioning unit drains there has been a warranty extension i've been told when we turn the wheel left or right it feels like the the car is coming apart the subframe needs to be replaced .
Struts and ball joints have been replaced 5 times since owning this car the past 5 years. currently being repaired after subframe broke while i was driving. did some research and apparently this is a huge issue. not only while i was driving when it broke, i had my kids with me. while making a left hand turn onto a busy street i heard a loud 'snap' and lost all control of my car.
Yes my daughter has a 08 dodge caliber but the manufacturer date is 11 07 the engine cradle is completely rusted out. mechanic said this is a serious safety issue. he said poor ~metal quality causes this. she needs help with this. she is still making payments on this.she is afraid to drive it.the car is setting now.
My car has had electrical issues and most all the calibers do also has transmission issues which has had multiple complaints dodge refuses to answer or fix any of the cars or issue recalls they have been made well aware if you check forums as well you can see the difficult times other people have had and the dangerous situations
I bought this car, and i found out that my car recalled several items. i just wanted to know if they were fix. how do i found out if they were fix or not. my number is [xxx]. information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
Took car in for inspection and was told by mechanic that the frame was shot, totally rusted out and could break anytime.
Car stopped while driving several times and then would t start at all. replaced fuse and it ran for a little bit and then wouldn't accelerate over 40. after getting back home engine wouldn't start at all or it would take almost 30 minutes to try and it would sometimes fire up. now it will not start at all. starter is new and the only other thing we can think is maybe electrical. that and the lack of acceleration are major problems and it needs to be addressed!
My car started to stall a month ago after getting a new battery placed into my vehicle. the etc (engine throttle control) light would pop up on my dash. i could no longer accelerate. so once i went to a mechanic shop, they read the codes and it said i needed my camshaft position censor fixed. problem occurred again days later. they then said it was the throttle body, they put in a new one. the problem occurred again, my car actually stalled while i was turning in a intersection. that is dangerous, especially when my daughter is in the car. i went back and they had to keep my car for a week because they said it was my ecm and they had to order the part. i got my car back on thursday june 29th, 2017 and my car stalled again on june 30th. i am quite frustrated at this point because i'm noticing that this has been an ongoing issue and dodge is not acknowledging that there is an issue. someone will and probably already has died because of this issue.
Thought i had a loose belt called dealership where i bought car told to dodge dealership i did that $90.00 service fee said i needed new alternator $1,086.00, i could not afford that took it to america's they said for $615.00 replace then they called and said need all new tie rods well that would bring it to $1077.00. i could only get a loan for $1,000.00 so the tie rods i cannot get. after the dodge dealership had my car when they gave it back to me that car was running so bad and shaking which it never did. i bought the car i had 70,000 that was 3 1/2 years ago now i only $75,000 miles on car. my car always ran smooth on highways and city streets . there was just a noise on my car. the car ran great. people could hear the noise also as i am deaf so i could barely hear noise with my hearing aid on. i had the car inspected just a few months ago and passed inspection they drove the car.
My car loss speed when you drive it for more than 50 minutes end then i have to wait for 20 minutes while the temperature down.
Had a loud grinding sound coming from rear of car thought it was the breaks, put the car on jack took tire off off and noticed that subframe of the car was completely rotted out. now when i rotated the tires before winter i noticed typical surface rust now there is a big hole and completely unsafe. i went on line to look it up and noticed a lot of people commenting on an extended warranty. i called dodge and was told to call corporate, corporate explained that as of august 2016 my extended warranty was expired. they told me to bring the car into dodge call them back and they would see if they could get an exception. since 3/27/17 i've been waiting for a call back, i called 3/30/17 to find that they denied my claim when i asked for a manager they stated it would be another day before anyone would call me. now i call them back and i keep being put on hold being told they cannot transfer me. this is a good car with a lot of life left and now dodge won't do anything for me when i've been a loyal customer. this is obviously a safety issue they know about and should grant some kind of good will assistance. dealer ship wants over $1200 to do it. this is crazy. any help i could get would be appreciated. i much like everyone else making the complaints cannot afford to do the work myself and can't afford to just go buy a new car.
I have come across two vehicles now that were both known for k-frame/sub-frames rusting out and both have recalls for this issue but this specific vin on both of these dont qualify for this issue. both of these vehicles have no rust anywhere on the under body but yet the k-frame on them are completely rusted out and both have broke at the a-arms. how is it that the consumers are being aloud to only fix this issue on "some" vins and not others when its the same exact issue??? why is it that they are aloud to continue to pt the same crap part on the vehicle instead of fixing the problem that is causing it to rust out. i will put both vin's below for you to examine. 2007 dodge caliber - 117k miles 2008 jeep patriot - 54k miles
Crossmembers front and rear subframe are rusted through and perforated. damaging front end parts by instability...car unsafe to drive. car just purchased from unsavory car dealer...
My car hesitates when going up hill . it looses all power and only drives 5-10 mph and wont gain any speed till im on flat ground or heading down hill.
The horn stop working on my 2007 dodge caliber i would like to know if there any recall on this.
Hello, i have a 2007 dodge caliber . i was driving back from upstate ny to ct and the overheating transmission came on . then it started winning , it lost speed even though i pressed the pedal to the floor . the rpms went sky high to almost 6, but i was moving slow . sometimes my back widows don't go up or down . passenger head light don't work .. i just want to know what's happening . then i drive it to my mechanic and they check it next day and they say its fine.
Bought car used in 2014. within a week the maniverter needed replaced. dash lights recently stopped working while driving at night. cannot see speedometer or other gauges at night. transmission stops working when it is hot out , trans temp light comes on and trans shuts down when driving on highways which has almost caused numerous accidents. car stalls several times after filling with gas causing dangerous situations when driving especially pulling out into traffic after filling gas tank. control arms and ball joints on front of car replaced with parts from dodge dealer and are bad for a second time . we will never buy another dodge vehicle.
Engine cradle completely rusted. car is not driveable. took the car in for service due to extremely bad noise. was shown condition of engine cradle and bad struts due to engine cradle completely rusted.
Rcvd a letter in 2013 regarding front and rear cross members needing an inspection & possible repairs. i did not get this inspected as recommended. i went today to have car pre-inspected for pa inspection & was told what mechanic called front sub-frame was rusted through & extremely weak and the rear wasn't far from being rusted through. also warned if i was in an accident it would fold because of being weak & makes it dangerous to drive. called local dodge dealer & dodge's corporate customer service & i couldn't get in to have dodge inspect for 10 days. hopefully the "cross members" & what my mechanic calls "sub-frame" is all the same and is covered under 10 yr extended warranty. https://customerconnect.custhelp.com/app/mobile/fiat/b2c_detail/a_id/24689
My service engine light came on, took it to advance auto and it popped codes p2006, p1607, p0722, p0717. i changed all codes except p1607 because they were cheaper. the pcm runs 299.00 or more and i cannot afford that. my vehicle barely made it home, it had very little power. after changing the sensors, it runs smooth until you put it in gear, (service light still on and blinking) then it shakes so bad and has limp power. i cannot get back to advance to run codes again and would like to know if i need to re program the pcm? where can i get this done? the nearest dodge dealer is in crossville, tn, a 45 minute drive and i am scared to drive this thing. i swear, i wish i never would have bought it, worst car ever. please help me get this running right again, i am still paying for it. it has been parked since march 2016.
Husband was driving our 2007 dodge caliber making a u-turn and noticed a jerk in the steering. proceeded to drive to our complex as it was only two miles away. made a second u-turn and same thing happened. once in our complex and proceeded to go over the first speed bump. the car stopped with the front driver side dropped. he exited the car to see what happened and noticed the subframe had snappened in half and was rusted beyond extreme.
The electronic control sensor keeps flashing and i keep losing power to my car. it starts shaking and making noises like it's about to stall. i have stalled several times. this is very concerning as i have kids and have to travel roads where there are very few spots to pull over safely whether it's because of traffic or on a mnt with a dropoff. i am a single parent and help is not always close.
Headlight bulb replacement should be easy for the consumer and company should be liable for the low beam problem that causing lot of owners to repairs cost of 100 of 900 dollars. this is a economy safety issue that increase pressure of the owners who do not affords such a costly repairs and drive in pressure -- also a issue for the safety of others. one small problem can cause many other problems. do not let company get out of easy excuse that under not a safety problem.
P2004 dodge p2004 dodge - intake manifold runner control stuck open read more: http://engine-codes.com/p2004_dodge.html#ixzz3fraoseks
I was traveling on i-40 when i hit a bump in the road, my engine light came on and stayed on from memphis, tn to jamestown, tn. i was not having any driving problems, the car drove fine. i took it in to advance auto and had them run the obd2 on it. it pulled 4 codes and they are as follows... p2006 intake manifold runner- stuck closed. i already changed that part on 6/6/15 p1607 powertrain control module - internal shutdown. p0722 output shaft speed sensor p0717 turbine input shaft speed sensor now as i said, my car seems to run fine and i have no idea why these sensors are showing up. what can i do to reset the codes, i already disconnected the battery and left it over night but engine light is still on. what can i do? thank you [xxx] information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).' *jb
Upon driving home from work in february of 2015, i noticed a horrible nose coming from the front of my car. as the days progressed, the nose had become worse. i had assumed there was a problem with the struts and had them replaced right away. my father in law, a mechanic, saw that the front sub frame cross member is completely rusted out. i was then told by several mechanics that the car is unsafe to drive due to the amount rust on the sub frame and the high risk of the cross member breaking thus causing an accident. after much research, it has come to my knowledge that this is a manufacturers problem and nothing has ever been done about it. the a/c unit is located right above the cross member. this unit is leaking water onto the sub frame thus causing the part to rust.
Please find the enclosed pictures and an invoice for the cost of labor to repair my 2007 dodge caliber (contact with email address so i can provide photos.) the part was a k-bar, which according to my mechanic should never have been in this disrepair with only a little over 100,000 miles. i am privileged to have a mechanic who is also a maine state inspection station to have found this defective part on my vehicle this preventing a serious situation to develop. my understanding is toyota has recalled this similar part for repair. your attention to this matter and concerns would be greatly appreciated. thank-you *tr
Drove home from work at midnight, parked my car woke up in the morning and vehicle wouldn't kick over. had battery power and it cranked when i turned the key but would kick over to start. towed to dealership for diagnosis. *tt
Ir conditioning compressor failed and was replaced under extended warranty in january 2013. new a/c compressor installed, but a/c clutch fell off fourteen months later as i was turning a corner. i was told that because of the compressor failure, (which one was not referenced) there are metal shavings in the a/c coolant lines and the entire system needs replacement. service adviser stated that he has received multiple complaints of this and that i will be unable to use vehicle defrost due to this and it is the snowiest time of the year. dodge will not replace, as vehicle and part are now both out of warranty. replacement part only under warranty for 12 months, but have not had to engage either defrost or a/c in the past 8 months until two weeks ago, when the replacement failed and the clutch broke off. using the defrost could result in the unit overheating, causing an engine fire or other failure.
I was driving down the interstate during a heavy rain storm and my windshield wipers stopped working. i turned them off and back on but they would not turn back on. based on research conducted, and similar issues found during the research, all signs point to the totally integrated power module. this is completely unsafe and i can't believe this part isn't weather proof when it controls so many vital parts of the vehicle. with all the issues i'm also shocked to know there hasn't been a recall on this product. this same style product is used in multiple dodge vehicles and other chrysler / jeep vehicles. those vehicles also exhibit the same issue.
while driving the car it would make creaking noises underneath the engine and front suspension area. the vehicle was taken to the owner's regular repair shop for state inspection and report the creaking noise in the engine, front end area. the technician diagnosed the cause of the creaking noise as a rusted out engine carrier and also a worn out rack and pinion assembly. i decided to report this serious problem because other individuals who have this automobile may also experience the same condition. the engine cradle and rack and pinion assembly are vital components for safe handling and structural integrity of the vehicle. being that this is an expensive major repair, the manufacturer needs to know of the problem and should design and improve these components to resist rust and wear and last for the life of the vehicle. the engine carrier rust problem and rack and pinion assembly should also be investigated to determine the possibility of a recall.
With only 38,550 miles on my car (which has been well cared for) i had to have the wheel bearings replaced. when i picked it up, my mechanic (who has been the only mechanic i have used for over 10 years) told me that the ball joints were also totally shot & had to be replaced. after a little research i found out the danger i was putting myself & others in, had him do the ball joints the next day. these 2 parts seemed to need replacement way before they should have. the dealership here (service person/al) told me since i was over my 3 year, 36,000 mile warranty, (and haven't been there in 2 years) there was nothing they could do for me. immediately after the work was completed by my mechanic, i stopped at the bank. there i saw another dodge caliber pull in. while in the bank, i spoke with that driver. she told me she just had the wheel bearings done also. im not sure what year her car was but it appeared to be newer than mine! what's going on with these cars? shouldn't the dealer have had a little more interest when my actual mileage was only 2000 over the warranty. they kept pointing out that the car was over 5 years old & only had a 3 year warranty. to me that has no significance...the mileage is what concerns me. i hope others will take note & bring this to the attention of chrysler before there are related accidents or deaths. i did try to find a number online to call chrysler, only to come up with sales...i wouldn't buy another! please inform me of any actions taken. thank you *tr
We have been told by our car repair techs that both of our tie rods in the front of the car have gone bad. the car only has 70,000 on it, the first went bad at about 65k and had that replaced. this is not normal and would like this matter looked into. i did more research online and found many similar complaints for that year and model. i have had many cars of different makes and never had a issue like this, not normal at all!
I purchased a new 2007 dodge caliber in april 07. today, while replacing the tires for the first time, it was found that both lower control arms and ball joints had failed. this causes a very unsafe condition that can cause the front wheels to fall off or create a situation of uncontrollable steering. the tire dealer told me that they had seen numerous cases of this with this particular model of car. lower control arms and ball joints are not normal wear items, they are steering components that should last longer than a set of tires. after researching this on the internet by googling dodge caliber + ball joints, i found many other caliber owners had experienced the same issue. dodge has not issued a recall or service bulletin on this very unsafe issue. toyota was subjected to government hearings, made major news headlines and fined heavily due to throttle sticking. drivers had the ability to react by putting the car in neutral or shutting off the car but with this steering issue, you may not have the ability to steer the automobile at all. my research shows chrysler has made no attempt to fix this issue, research also shows you can only get replacement parts only from an authorized chrysler dealer and when you pay chrysler to fix it, they are using the same replacement parts that failed without warning in the first place. the car must be jacked up and tires removed to evaluate the ball joints. the ball joints fail so badly it destroys the lower control arms they are mounted in. this cannot be checked any other way. this is a major safety issue for me and my family and everyone on the road with thousands of these cars on the road as well. these are accidents waiting to happen anywhere at any time. there must be a recall on the unsafe steering issue.
Safety recall k11 on my dodge caliber. i received the recall notice over a week ago, made an appointment for this am 7/6/10 at 10:30 am and delivered the car to tacoma dodge in tacoma, wa. i arrived early and checked in. 45 minutes after my scheduled appointment they still had not started work on my car. the recall letter said 30 minutes to complete the work. i was not appraised that they wanted to work on the vehicle at their leisure. other dodge dealers in pierce and thurston counties have refused to provide service in the past as tacoma dodge was not an "approved" dealer in gm's re-organization and i had bought the car there before the restructure. i had appointments and needed my vehicle back. it had not been repaired. *tr
I was stopped at red light,i was rear ended at aprox.45mph by suv. the car started in fire at rear of car,flames touched to of car inside of car. after emptying a fire extinguisher,fire restarted 5 more times,each time using another extinguisher,fireman finally flooded car to stop the fire...just wondering if anyone else has had this happen? the muffler and gas tank arevery close,and were touching after impact.. *tr
Original dunlop tires size 20570r15. tires cupped after they were rotated and properly maintained. causing loud noise and vibrating. manufacturer and authorized dealers would not replace. claim it was due to front end alignment issue. however, that isn't required in the maintenance book. the mechanic is suppose to recommend. had front end aligned during regular preventative maintenance the day the mechanic said to have it done. he said at that time tires were fine. yet no one would take responsibility for tire damage. noise and shaking would start after 20 mph and get worse as speed increased.
El vehiculo no sirve. *tr
Paint on from bumper peels off while washing the car. *jb
Copy of complaint letter attached: october 25, 2006 daimler chrysler motors corporation customer center po box 21-8004 auburn hills, mi 48321-8004, purchase date: march 25, 2006, dealership name: manassas dodge kia subaru to whom it may concern: after consulting with my attorney, mr. thomas f. hennessy of vienna, va, i was advised to make one last attempt to reconcile my problems with my 2007 dodge caliber before taking legal action. as of today my car has been seen by dodge dealerships six times for the same problem (see attached repair orders). the problem i am having is a bad vibration in the steering wheel once i have reached 60 miles an hour and above. this problem persists 90% of the time when driving. i view this as a serious safety defect or at the least a significant impairment. each time the vehicle was brought into the dealership i was told it was repaired or they could not find a problem. i have owned many cars and never had a car perform this poorly. i kept bringing this car back to the dealership because i was concerned about my safety and still feel this way. i bought this vehicle for the sleek styling and performance qualities. i am very disappointed. i am now requesting that you get very much involved in the problem because i no longer have the time or the patience to deal with this any longer. i expect to have a response from you within ten days of your receiving this letter. *jb